1950s Longines 'Jumbo' Stainless Steel Wrist Watch

1950s Longines 'Jumbo' Stainless Steel Wrist Watch

£1,450
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Reference

32238

1950s Longines 'Jumbo' Sei Tacche Ref. 5483-2 - Stainless Steel, Original Tropical Dial.
Rare 36mm Stepped Case, Longines Calibre 12.68N, Original Garrard & Co Royal Presentation Box & Outer Sleeve.
There is something particularly captivating about a vintage watch that has aged gracefully over the decades, acquiring a character that simply cannot be replicated. This beautiful 1950s Longines 'Jumbo' Sei Tacche is a wonderful example, combining the understated elegance of mid-century Swiss watchmaking with the kind of originality, proportions and provenance that make collecting vintage timepieces so rewarding.
Dating to the 1950s, this handsome Longines Reference 5483-2 belongs to an era when the manufacture was producing some of its finest and most enduring wristwatches. Its generous stainless steel case, beautifully aged original dial and celebrated in-house mechanical movement make it a particularly appealing example of the marque's post-war craftsmanship. Adding considerably to its charm is the accompanying period presentation box from Garrard & Co, the distinguished London jewellers long associated with the British Royal Household.
Known amongst collectors as the 'Sei Tacche', Italian for 'six notches', the watch takes its nickname from the distinctive six-notch screw-down caseback, a practical construction designed to provide improved resistance to moisture and dust. The substantial stainless steel case measures approximately 35.5-36mm in diameter, an unusually generous size for a gentleman's wristwatch of the period and the reason these larger examples are affectionately referred to as 'Jumbo' models.
The case itself is beautifully proportioned, with a gently stepped profile, sharply defined faceted lugs and an impressive 46mm lug-to-lug measurement. These elegant architectural details give the watch a distinctive presence on the wrist, while the clean stainless steel finish ensures it remains wonderfully versatile. It is a design that feels every bit as handsome today as it would have when first purchased more than seventy years ago.
Undoubtedly the most charming feature of this particular example is its remarkable original dial. Originally silvered, the surface has gradually developed a warm honey-amber colouring, interspersed with a fine, almost granular pattern of natural ageing. The result is a wonderfully atmospheric tropical patina, with subtle variations of champagne, cream and golden brown that change character as the light moves across the dial.
Importantly, the dial remains unrestored, preserving the authentic appearance acquired over its lifetime. The attractive alternating Arabic numerals at twelve, two, four, six, eight and ten o'clock are complemented by elegant faceted dart-shaped hour markers, all finished in a warm gilt tone. Matching gilt dauphine hands sweep across the dial, while the applied Longines winged hourglass emblem sits proudly beneath the neatly printed Longines signature.
The combination is beautifully balanced, retaining all the refinement of a traditional 1950s dress watch while offering considerably more visual interest than a conventional silver or champagne dial. Its natural ageing is not a flaw to be disguised, but an important part of the watch's history and individuality. No two dials develop in quite the same way, and this particular example has acquired a richness and warmth that gives it a genuinely distinctive personality.
Beneath the substantial screw-down caseback is the highly regarded Longines Calibre 12.68N, a manually wound, in-house movement from one of the manufacture's most celebrated periods. Incorporating an indirect sweep-centre seconds mechanism, the calibre is a fine example of the precision engineering and traditional watchmaking expertise for which Longines was internationally respected.
The movement has recently undergone a complete professional service, including cleaning, lubrication and regulation, and is running exceptionally well. Winding is smooth and positive, the hands set cleanly, and the watch is maintaining excellent timekeeping performance. It is particularly pleasing to find an example that combines such attractive vintage originality with the reassurance of a freshly serviced mechanical movement.
The stainless steel case is similarly well preserved, retaining its strong original profile, clearly defined lug facets and attractive stepped construction. There are light surface marks and signs of careful use, entirely appropriate for a watch of this age, but nothing that detracts from its appearance. Rather, these small traces of its past complement the wonderfully aged dial and reinforce the authentic vintage character of the piece.
A particularly special aspect of this Longines is its accompanying original period Garrard & Co presentation box. Finished in the firm's distinctive pale blue, the elegant leatherette clamshell case opens to reveal a contrasting dark velvet-lined interior and a silk-lined lid bearing the Garrard name, together with the historic Royal Warrants.
The box is accompanied by its matching blue outer cardboard sleeve, also bearing the Garrard branding and the firm's historic 112 Regent Street, London address. The presentation is a charming reminder of the days when a fine Swiss wristwatch would have been carefully selected from one of Britain's most prestigious jewellers, often to mark an important personal occasion or milestone.
Garrard's distinguished history as jewellers to the British Royal Household lends an additional layer of interest to the ensemble. Although the original purchaser and precise circumstances of the watch's sale are not documented, the survival of the period retailer's box and matching outer sleeve provides a particularly attractive connection with the world of traditional London luxury retailing.
The watch is fitted with a handsome 18mm tan grained calfskin leather strap, finished with traditional stitching and a stainless steel pin buckle. The warm leather tones complement the golden patina of the original dial beautifully, giving the watch a relaxed yet elegant appearance that works equally well with casual clothing or more formal dress.
For collectors, the appeal of this Longines lies in the unusually satisfying combination of its generous 'Jumbo' proportions, desirable Sei Tacche case construction, beautifully preserved original detailing and striking tropical dial. Add to this the respected Calibre 12.68N movement, recent mechanical servicing and charming Garrard & Co presentation set, and the result is a particularly compelling mid-century wristwatch.
An exceptionally characterful survivor from the golden age of Swiss horology, this 1950s Longines offers considerably more than simple timekeeping. It is a wonderful expression of the craftsmanship, restrained elegance and enduring quality that made Longines one of the great names in twentieth-century watchmaking, with a distinctive appearance and fascinating British retail connection that make it a pleasure to own and appreciate.

Watch Details
Manufacturer: Longines
Model: 'Jumbo' Sei Tacche
Reference: 5483-2
Date: Circa 1950s
Movement: Original Longines in-house Calibre 12.68N, manually wound, with indirect sweep-centre seconds; recently professionally serviced, cleaned, lubricated and regulated
Case: Stainless steel stepped case with distinctive faceted lugs and six-notch screw-down caseback
Case Diameter: Approximately 35.5-36mm, excluding crown
Lug-to-Lug Measurement: Approximately 46mm
Caseback: Heavy stainless steel threaded six-notch construction, giving rise to the collector's nickname 'Sei Tacche'
Dial: Original unrestored silvered dial, naturally aged to a striking warm honey-amber tropical patina with fine granular surface character
Hour Markers: Applied gilt Arabic numerals at twelve, two, four, six, eight and ten o'clock, alternating with faceted dart-shaped markers
Hands: Original-style gilt dauphine hour and minute hands with central sweep seconds
Dial Signature: Printed Longines name with applied winged hourglass emblem
Strap: 18mm hand-stitched tan grained calfskin leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Presentation Box: Period Garrard & Co pale blue leatherette clamshell presentation box, with velvet-lined interior and silk-lined lid displaying the firm's name and historic Royal Warrants
Outer Packaging: Matching original-style Garrard & Co blue cardboard sleeve bearing the firm's historic London retail details
Retail Association: Garrard & Co Ltd, The Crown Jewellers, 112 Regent Street, London
Condition: Outstanding vintage condition, retaining a beautifully aged original dial, well-defined stainless steel case and attractive signs of careful use consistent with its age
Mechanical Condition: Fully serviced and regulated, winding smoothly, setting correctly and maintaining excellent timekeeping performance

Dimensions:

Height 0.8 cm / "
Width 4 cm / 1 3⁄4"
Depth 24 cm / 9 1⁄2"
Period

1850-1899

Year

1950s

Medium

Stainless steel

Country

Switzerland

Condition

Excellent

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